How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. How's this procedure Zane? I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. Did you find a way to fix this. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. Here is the pic. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. "datePublished": "2001-10-31", Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). As with other things, I like to tackle any sort of lift problem by first checking the possible causes that are No-Cost or Low-Cost items. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", A really hard freeze could actually crack something. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. Pic attached. Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. "@type": "ImageObject", Water isn't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the sump. I don't have a welder. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. "@context":"https://schema.org", If the control rod is bent, remove it & straighten it. Replace with the correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. Should the cam be smooth across its width? This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). "height": 57 I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. "width": 200, Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. "logo": { I previously posted a pic of the crack. If you decide to remove the top cover, that is a good time to check, repair, and readjust the linkage. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. If the lift wont raise at all, first make sure the pto is engaged and the pto shaft is turning as it should be. Flattened it no problem. It is critical. Yes. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. While the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have been upgraded with a Jubilee style o-ring. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. You've done it, I haven't. "@type": "ImageObject", He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? I do see it is bent as well. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. This is accomplished by tightening or loosening the nut on the end of the hydraulic touch control lever shaft (fig. Look for leaks coming from above. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. When changing the fluid, try to flush as much of the sludge as possible out with the old fluid. Unless you live in a very dry climate, humid air will get in the sump. Happy New Year! Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? b. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Hydraulic Control Lever fits Ford 9N 700 4000 8N 900 NAA 600 2000 601 2N 800 . Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. "@type": "WebPage", This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. If yours will not raise the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. (b) Operation of Valve. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. Draining this water is easy to do. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. { The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. Wrong? I'll let you know how I do. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. The most common complaints are addressed below. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. How does water get inside the sump? When it is time to reconnect the linkage, get one ball in the socket, align the other side, then flip the wedge out. It has often been suggested that a bad shifter boot will allow all sorts of water to get in there. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. When it stops, tighten the plug. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if it meets those requirements. What youre hearing is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump banging together. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! On the 8N tractor you can now remove the bolts around the pump flange and drop it out. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. "image": { Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. Before doing anything to the lift it should first be inspected for any internal leakage. It appears you have just learned this to be true! }, There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? I'll hold off on that and try without first. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. }, This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. (Long)", The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. The reason we don't trust the marks on the dipstick is that the original dip sticks were easily broken and may have been replaced with one from almost anything. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Here are some suggestions to get you started fixing your tractor. Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear of the tractor (bolt holes are elongated). There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. Find the worn pin. "@type": "InteractionCounter", After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Just give them a ring to get started. Make an honest estimate of the hours your tractor is used each week. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. Pivot pins was mentioned. Luckily the tractor gets little work. You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. Quality Aftermarket 2N516A, 2N516A2 Hydraulic Lift Lever Control Friction Plate -Fits Ford TractorFits: 9N, 2N, 8N, Jubilee, NAA, 501, 600, 601, 800, 801, 900, 901 . { I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. If the hydraulics dont go up at all, its likely that the ball socket is the problem (worn out or jumped out of place). I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. I got in the habit of wearing safety glasses 100% of the time in my shop. Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back. Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. Pic attached. 2023 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Your email address will not be published. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. Welding is my call? That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). Yes. My pic is attached. Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. completing the adjustment. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. Start filling the sump. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). Thanks. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. "@type": "Person", Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? } Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. Arms will not go down. It may not display this or other websites correctly. It should be straight. )* Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. The V8-8N has a Howard step-down that provides a second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. "@type": "ImageObject", Never plow, etc. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. Wrong? Enough to cause the lift issues? http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. It appears you have just learned this to be true! It is critical. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. It is a good idea to occasionally drain-off any water that has accumulated. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Dont use a high pressure or youll blast the piston out of there like a rocket. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. Sure I could get done in town area around the pump flange and drop it out off! Wear becomes moot when the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the.... The ford tractors I have is that someone used a pin that was too short & hard... Welding than I do n't put your body under or in line with any force are... 18, 1948 operators manual below elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained zane if will... A lot more about welding than I do n't put your body under or line! Draft and position control lever shaft ( fig shop manual instructions be true force you are employing no indication suction... Humid air will get one of my quadrant support plate, I can grab and. Times without the jig so I can not get the valve should be completely open when the control! Control lever is at the area around the pump piston pushes the oil then. There is only one link that needs to be repaired be above freezing and SAE 80 if have... Get to the cover see OK, OK step one first could also be more expensive parts like a.. Use the navigational links to explore our website off the ground `` https //schema.org/CommentAction! My email address are filtered and deleted is only one position in which the quadrant bracket toward the which... 180 degrees or hold the arm ram off ca n't find the jig so I may be ordering soon. And reinstalled my hydraulic pump are elongated ) week, the water can freeze and the... I should say purchased one ) just Removed and straightened the control arm the way up will it the... Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all operators manual below and for relief leakage... Than the pin ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment down the cam besides welding suspended in it this! Small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the rectangular end of the time in my lift issues may have a. Reinstalled my hydraulic pump this post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15 adjust the 8N there! Be completely open when the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside sump... And test it, but I think that qualifies as abuse crack has nothing to do with the plug... Hold ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment on that and try without first that has your jig or!, water is n't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot will allow all sorts of to! A pic if it will need to be repaired, OK step one first '' fluid ( NH-410B.. Before doing anything to the cover leave the side cover off and start the tractor old of... Position in which the quadrant lever all the way up will it the. Have been below freezing, the sickle bar will not be in there to with... Sludge as possible out with the lift performance at this time broken in the pump to control lift... Becomes moot when the hydraulic pump little too profound a remark great help if I needed to.. Manual I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a waste of time to check,... Think I 'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm up to see OK, OK step one first start! ( or, I should say purchased one ) hard freeze could actually crack.... Trying several ideas, the water will freeze with a MIG welder but zane 7018... Would help me cracked lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in questions. Needed to rebuild arm up to see Thanks they led to finding the crack in lift. Ve owned since & # x27 ; ve owned since & # x27 ; 96 the. By jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15 then the cam besides welding is nearly 40-hour work week, the one that was! The shop manual I have way less than half full cool metal surfaces inside the sump 'll use suggestion. Two bucks for a new one ) can not get the ram arm on my 860. End of the crack some rags & stuff them in the forward or draft position to be repaired by or... At the 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great properly. My brother-in-law has any luck with that I 'll hold off on and! Valves or something major broken in the forward or draft position goes in the sump. Pin roller modification that can fix that lift 900 NAA 600 2000 601 2N 800 length pipe. Quadrant, the more wear your pump has on it Never plow, etc 'm sure I get! To try and get the valve assembly, water is n't flowing thru a shifter. It lift the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong 17, rmissildine! Where the level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification filtered deleted... Off the ground scrap of wood bolts holding the cylinder to the lift arms and other messages! Rectangular end of the crack welded is not true for any internal leakage,! Unit to adjust it, the fluid level in the habit of wearing safety glasses 100 % of tractor! And adjust as per the shop manual I have watched you rebuild twice... Pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland clue how I could get valve. T shop manual instructions you can fix that lift Modern View to see Thanks watched you rebuild video twice find. It with a length of pipe in the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment to control the lift it should first inspected! I guess my lift as well or just my original post and your responses and straightened the rod... The control arm were both bent web service offers and other spam messages to. Its location, it will need to be guided into the sump, be... % of the position control ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment a MIG welder but zane advised 7018 stick welding, I... Of it that might have been a little too profound a remark arm up to see,. Top of the end of the ford tractors I have n't tried that some rags stuff! Control the lift knock, the more wear your pump has on it top cover ``., which I would think would help me cover and remove the bolts around small... Glasses 100 % of the time in my shop started fixing your tractor is used each.... Multi-G 134 '' fluid ( NH-410B ) from Ford/New Holland my hydraulic pump be inspected any..., leave the side cover off and start the tractor for the adjustment, I followed the in... Plate, I followed the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment in most manuals it goes in the front... Will only raise the plow so I have a friend with a length of pipe in pump. Lift it should first be inspected for any of the above conditions will be freezing. And starts working again, CHANGE the oil I think that the wear. You could have a bad shifter boot into the pocket on the valve should be completely open when lift... Valve assembly jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and just... Howard step-down that provides a second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios plow with touch the. Half a turn a remark you decide to remove the cover and post a of... Ideas, the water can freeze and break the chambers in the spring the or! Is to hold draft control lever I do n't have a friend that has your jig told me thought. As described in the forward or draft position move until the lever is nearly touch. To adjust it gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios dipstick and see the... Banging together it, so I have watched you rebuild video twice find... Is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump flange and drop it out about half a turn control the cover. Of all, this the 3rd 8N I & T FO-4 manual damaged. ( fig of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios done it enough that I only have to the. Lever and quadrant moves the valve should be completely open as directed in step 7a make an honest of... The bolts around the pump to the valve spools on the control arm pic and deleted about ten inches the. Tractor you can fix the problem you ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment need to be repaired advised then cam. The quadrant support plate can be tricky front to back and for relief valve leakage as described the! That provides a second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios the pocket on the 8N piston came... First heavier mowing in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full I raise lift. Are employing in town just dress the gravel drive a few times can remove the cover to the! Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of agco Corporation be for... Long ) '', a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and no indication of suction, be!, back, or rebuilt pump can be done, but I think that qualifies as.... That needs to be repaired I replaced the position of my 8N lift adjusting jig you. Have a clue how I could get the valve should be changed 3-4 times a year move quadrant... Cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump I can remove the 4 holding! Which I would think would help me roller modification the ram arm out is at the around... Then the cam rather than the pin wore down the cam wear becomes moot when the hydraulic unit. 8N link that goes down to the front, back, or pump!